Swimming and beach at Platja Fonda (Begur)

Platja Fonda in Begur is an almost hidden beach around the corner from Fornells on the Costa Brava on the same stretch of coast as Aiguablava. The contrast with Aiguablava almost could not be greater.

Whereas Aiguablava is a fine sandy beach that opens into coves and the sea, Platja Fonda is a dark brooding beach sitting under the cliffs that rise up to the top of Cap Begur with dark grey pebble-grit stone and high steep vertical hillsides behind.

We tend to swim in the evening, and as the beach faces east, the beach was in shade by the time we arrived, but the sun was still catching on the waves and few yachts out in the bay.

We may also have been lucky, but the water was almost millpond still,  and with superb water clarity the swimming was like being in a giant fish-aquarium. The bay itself is relatively deep with a rocky bay below and as we swam we almost got a stationary column of fish hanging like a mobile in the water.

The beach itself only has one entrance and exit via a relatively steep set of stairs from a small lane from a smallish car park above through the small estate of established hillside houses (the turning is marked on the main road, or a connection to the road to Fornells). A walking path also runs along the coast to connect to Fornells village and hotels.

The path gets into the beach on the right hand side with the main cliffs at the other side of the relatively long beach.

The signposts warn of potential falling rocks as you come into the beach. To the right looking out to sea is a house on a rock promontory and a handful of teenage boys were climbing to get to points on walls and rocks to jump into the sea.

As mentioned, the sand is mostly small dark grey pebbles with some larger rocks in the beach and occasional patches of finer grey grit-like sand. The pebbles are relatively smooth so it's not too bad underfoot, but not good for sand castles.

Entering the water, the bay shelves steeply into the very clear water. The bottom of the bay falls away quickly leaving a deep column of water with the rocks below in the depths. For swimmers there is no need to look out for obstacles and the swimming is clear and easy.

Facilities at the beach

There are no facilities at the beach. It is left natural and there are no lifeguards. The closest facilities are in Fornells along the path.

Sand quality

The sand is unusual in that it's small rounded pebbles and grey grit (almost like the type of stones you might use for a garden path). Some patches are sandier than others, but in general the rounded pebbles predominate and run into the water.

Swimming

We might have been lucky, but the water was super-still and being relatively deep and clear it was like swimming in a fish tank. The bay has enough distance for laps and we guess that it would be possible to swim around to Fornells and Aiguablava for longer distance swimmers.

Parking

Above Platja Fonda is a small carpark and a lane down to the beach. The car park is also used for Fornells so may get busy. For us on a Friday evening in the height of summer it was actually quite quiet with plenty of spaces

Walks and exploring

Walking would involve connecting with Fornells and then routes to Aiguablava Fornells and Aiguablava walk (GR92). To get to Begur would involve going back up the hill to find the steep path up the hills.

Next beaches

South to Aiguablava/Fornells (Begur) - North to Sa Tuna (Begur)