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Fornells and Aiguablava walk (GR92)

Fornells village looking back to Aiguablava on the Costa Brava Fornells and Aiguablava are small coastal locations in the municipality of Begur in the direction of Tamariu. This is a walk we do regularly in one of the luxurious hidden corners of the Costa Brava. The village of Fornells almost tumbles into the sea and has a pretty harbour. At the other end Aiguablava is a sandy beach under a Parador (a particular type of historic Spanish hotel) which is the beach used on the adverts for Begur and its blue Mediterranean waters. Between Fornells and Aiguablava are a variety of large luxurious houses and villas that seem to nestle into the sides of the hill above the sea. In the summer Aiguablava's car park is usually very full. In December, when we were walking, it was empty and there was practically no-one around. It's one of the beauties of the Costa Brava - once the holiday season is over you pretty much have the place to yourself.

The route follows the GR92 coast road (marked with red and white stripes on the paths). We tried the walk last spring only to find a rock fall had closed the path above the Aguablava end. This winter the path has been replaced with a short bridge over the gap.

Tiny sandy bay at Fornells We started this time at the Aiguablava car park. The path, like many others here, is not found on Google Maps - some times Google misses connections so it's not so good for walking. The route and GR92 is marked on walking maps though. We use the Emporda Costa Brava 1:30,000 maps to check out routes. And even then you'll find routes that aren't completely marked.

From Aiguablava (blue water) follow the beach to the left and up steps over the cliffs to the next bay. This is large pebbles and rocks in complete contrast to Aiguablava. Being winter and so a bit wetter here, a small stream tumbles through the pebbles down to the sea. A small pile of whitened driftwood washed to the back of the cove. The path then goes under a covered walk way beneath a luxury villa before climbing into an olive grove. Then back down and into the terraced fishermen's cottages of Fornells. It almost feels like you're walking in people's yards so look for the red and white stripes. Another little bay with barely enough sand for a sandpit, then back through more cottages and up to the harbour and hotel. If you keep walking around the harbour you can continue across the rocks to another narrow cove where the rocks are in a chessboard of dark and light.

You then run into a natural 'infinity' pool that uses the natural rocks by the sea with hidden wall to give the contrast of the still pool water with the sea beyond.

Finally head up to the road and back out past the pristine gardens of the larger houses here. The final bit of the walk runs along the main road. Not so pleasant but not busy at this time of year.

Update: If you're walking this in reverse - Fornells to Aiguablava, someone has removed the signposts just below the orange houses as you leave Fornells. The path runs up the stairs and through what looks like the yard of the house.

Neighbouring walks: Sa Tuna, Cap de Begur, Begur - Palafrugell, Tamariu, Begur residential and Esclanya - Far de Sant Sebastia (Llafranc) to Tamariu - Begur, Ses Negres and Sa Riera

Swimming: Swimming at the beach at Aiguablava

Walking route between Aiguablava and Fornells near Begur on Costa Brava

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